20 Dec 2008 ~ Saturday Travel Day

Image Source: Uniworld.com

 Danube Holiday Markets with Uniworld

Met Paul ~ from last Christmas' Rhine River cruise ~ at the Atlanta airport.  

Flight left ATL at 4:45p EST, should arrive in Munich, Germany at 8a local.  Paul flying Business Class, I'm back in Economy.  Could not sleep so watched movies all night:  Wanted; Hellboy II; and Fred Clause.

We took a bus from the Munich airport to Passau, rained all the way and still raining when we got to there. A nap was next on my itinerary!

*~*

I was super excited about this trip.  It took me to Salzburg, Austria where we visited as kids when we lived in Germany.  I still remember putting on black pants and tops over our clothes, with a little matching black cap, and [riding a trolley cart through the salt mines.]  Somewhere in the Wisconsin storage unit that I was forced to give up, there is a small box with six different blocks of salt that they used to mine.  One of the small blocks is smooth on the top from where I used to lick it when I was a child.  Yeah, gross to think about doing it now.  There is also my baby book, which I think may even have a photo of us in those funny little outfits.

~*~

My scrapbook from this trip was also left in that damned storage unit, so I have rebuilt memories from what photos I can find, links, and information from the UniWorld website.  I am missing all of the postcards I collected and sent to myself, and most unfortunately some souvenirs that I brought home from that trip.  But the memories remain, and I suppose are the one tangible thing we always keep.  I've reached out to members of the Reddit community to see if I can get postcards of some places I visited.  Eventually, I also hope that UniWorld will be able to access their archives and provide me with menus and specific daily itineraries.

That said, I can tell you that the food was amazing, delicious, incredible, and I made sure to try something new and different meal.  The crew was gracious, friendly, and always helpful.

I have been unable to find some of my digital photos, and suspect that in that effing unit is also an external hard drive with them on it.  Oh well.  In my next life, I will be a little more organized and much less interested in marriage to a-holes.

21 Dec 08 ~ Arrival

Image Source: UniWorld.com

It was a 2+ hour bus ride from Munich to Passau.

We sail on the S.S. Beatrice this trip.

There are about 103 other passengers on this cruise, double last year's cruise.  More from other countries this year:  Canada, S. Africa, Korea, Wales, Britain, and Australia.  Also more kids under age 15.  It looks like a large family is on the cruise this year, grandparents, parents, kids, grandkids.  They make up almost a quarter of the passengers.  Paul is 75!  I would love to still be able to travel when I hit that milestone.

I got a free upgrade to a Cat 4 cabin!

Raining, so I napped instead of exploring on my own.  Tomorrow is the city tour.

22 Dec 08 ~ Passau, Germany

 Still raining, but a tour anyway.  Beautiful city.  

Tour of Passau this morning. Beautiful old cobblestone streets with tiny walkways and buildings painted in the 15th century. A demonstration (and taste-testing!) of gingerbread making from a family-owned confectioner that has been in business for 100 years! It was yummy!

St. Stephan’s Cathedral was just incredible! It was founded in the 8th century, then rebuilt in Italian Baroque by Italian architect Carlo Lurago to replace the original Gothic structure that was mostly destroyed by fires in 1662 and 1680. The organ here is one of the world’s largest with 17,300 pipes! We were treated to a short concert that was just magical. Closing my eyes I could almost feel like I’d gone back in time.

Captain's Welcome Reception and Dinner tonight with a local band playing for after-dinner entertainment.  There are three others from last year's cruise also on this one.  Sheila (89) is British and lives in New York's Greenwich Village, and Laura and her son, Daniel, from Philadelphia.

From the UniWorld site:  

PASSAU WALKING TOUR WITH CHRISTMAS MARKET

Join your local expert for a walk through picturesque lanes in the heart of Passau, stopping at the Town Hall to see its magnificent atrium, which boasts several massive works by the famous German painter Ferdinand Wagner, and pausing to admire the beautiful rococo stairway of the bishop’s New Residence. After much of the town burned to the ground in 1662 and again in 1680, the reconstruction involved many Italian artists, who gave Passau the baroque and rococo touches you see everywhere. Monumental St. Stephan’s Cathedral, built in glorious baroque style, forms the backdrop for the Passau Christmas Market. You’ll find a lot to enjoy here—from miniature Bavarian houses and blown-glass ornaments to spun-sugar confections—in more than 70 stalls. At times, the Passau Christmas Market also features demonstrations by local craftspeople, such as glassblowers, candle makers, woodcarvers, and confectioners, so you can buy your gifts directly from the people who made them.

23 Dec 08 ~ Linz & Salzburg, Austria

 Woke up in Linz this morning.  It was a two-hour bus ride into Salzburg.

The city is amazing.  Lunch was in the Hohensalzburg Fortress where we were entertained by a boys' choir.

Christmas markets and shopping in town after lunch.  Saw Mozart's birth house and where he was baptized.

The ceiling above the baptismal where Mozart was baptized.  It is still used today!

The Pjetersfriedhof (St. Peter's) Cemetery in Salzburg, the oldest cemetery there, dating back to 700, and the oldest tombstone date back to 1288.

I'm getting a sore throat ~ BUMMER!

From the UniWorld site:

FULL-DAY SALZBURG WALKING TOUR WITH CHRISTMAS MARKET

Salzburg’s musical heritage is apparent everywhere in its UNESCO-designated Old Town. The birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Salzburg celebrates its most famous son in many forms—with statues, with chocolates, with concerts—but there are other musical associations to discover too. Walk with your guide through the Mirabell Garden, the beautiful formal gardens where Maria sang “Do-Re-Mi” with her young charges in the movie The Sound of Music, and through the heart of the Old Town, which lies on both sides of the river. Because Salzburg belonged to the archbishops, the splendid cathedral has been the focal point of the city for nearly 600 years. The archbishop’s magnificent residence faces the square now named for Mozart, and the house where Mozart was born is nearby. (Mozart worked for the archbishop of his day—whom he despised—before he moved to Vienna.)

After your walking tour, you have some leisure time to explore the enchanting Christmas Market located in the square in front of the cathedral. Here you’ll find everything from Austrian lace to cinnamon-marbled cakes. Shop, nibble, browse and sing along with the carolers as you celebrate the holidays in this magical part of the world. Your guide can also suggest some great restaurants in the area: Café Tomaselli has hosted musical notables, from Mozart to Max Reinhardt, since 1705.

24 Dec 08 ~ Cruising Wachau Valley & Krems, Austria

Cruised through the Wachau Valley this morning, it was incredible!  Throat worse this morning, so was glad to be able to sleep a little.

From the UniWorld site:

You’ll want to find a comfortable seat in the lounge or on the Sun Deck today as your ship cruises through the Wachau Valley. Over the eons, the Danube cut a gorge through the foothills of the Bohemian Mountains, resulting in a 19-mile (30-kilometer) stretch of riverine scenery so beautiful; UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Landscape. Castle ruins dominate hilltops; baroque church towers appear on the riverbanks, marking historic villages and splendid abbeys; and vineyards and apricot orchards cling to the rocky slopes. Some of Austria’s finest white wines are produced from grapes grown on the dry-stone terraces above the river, where grapes were first planted 2,000 years ago.

Toured the Göttweig Abbey this afternoon.  So beautiful and peaceful.  I could live here.  It is an active monastery.

A beautiful ceiling fresco by Paul Troeger in the museum.

The organ recital in the Abbey was incredible.

Passed on the walking tour of Krems afterward, it was too cold and my throat too sore.

Christmas dinner tonight and charity auction for a dog rescue training group in Passau {they rescue people using dogs, not necessarily rescue dogs}.  I won a star ornament made of pine cones.

From the UniWorld site:

BENEDICTINE MONASTERY GÖTTWEIG WITH ORGAN CONCERT

It stands majestically on a hill above Krems, one of the most beautiful abbeys in Austria. Though Göttweig Abbey was founded in the 12th century, the complex of monastic buildings—where an active community of Benedictine monks still lives—largely dates to the early 1700s, when, following a fire, an extravagant abbot rebuilt on a lavish scale. Some of these rooms were designed for royal visitors, which might explain why the ceiling fresco above the Emperor’s Staircase features Emperor Charles VI as Apollo, and Napoleon once stayed in the imperial apartments. Following a guided tour of the complex’s highlights, you’ll step into the beautiful abbey church, which retains its 14th-century stained-glass windows, for a special organ recital. If the weather favors you on your journey to and from the abbey, you might get to see sunlight sparkling on icicle-crusted grape trellises as you ride through the vineyards; the monks have grown wine grapes here for more than 900 years and at one time supplied wine for church services all over Austria.

25 Dec 08 ~ Vienna, Austria

From the UniWorld site:  Renowned for its art and architecture, its classical music, its decadent pastries, and its lengthy list of famous former residents, the refined city of Vienna is a cultural treasure trove.

Image Source: Bing Images

 Sore throat much worse, so I skipped the morning tour so I could take the optional afternoon excursion to Schönbrunn Palace.

The palace was stunning.  So much gold leaf and gold everywhere!  And the gardens amazing!

I did not go to the church concert tonight.  Bundled into bed early with a very sore throat.

26 Dec 08 ~ Cruising the Danube & Bratislava, Slovakia

From the UniWorld site: 

Once hidden from the world behind the “Iron Curtain,” Slovakia retains an air of mystery and intrigue, and its small capital city has an unexpectedly colorful history. You’ll learn more about Bratislava’s past from a local expert and also visit the local Christmas Market—a relatively new (and thoroughly delightful) tradition for Slovakians. How do you say “Merry Christmas” in Slovak? “Veselé Vianoce!” The heart and soul of Slovakia, Bratislava is full of surprises. The city straddles the mighty Danube and has played a leading role in the politics and culture of the region for many centuries. Unlike cities with venerable Christmas markets, Bratislava just established its first-holiday market in 1993. But the Slovakians have quickly embraced the seasonal traditions of their Austrian and Hungarian neighbors—and you’ll get to embrace them as well.

St. George slaying the dragon

Commemorating the burning of the last witch in Bratislava, whose crime was simply having red hair.

Ouch.

According to the tour guide, houses with war damage are not taxed, so this house still has a cannonball in it from a centuries-old war,

My obsession with doors continues.

Captain's Farewell Reception and Dinner tonight.

 

From the UniWorld site:
BRATISLAVA WALKING TOUR

St. Martin’s Cathedral gives you a hint of the surprising history of this surprising city. The Gothic church was built into the medieval city’s fortifications, and 19 Habsburg rulers were crowned inside it, including Empress Maria Theresa. Close to the cathedral you’ll find St. Michael’s Gate, the last remaining portal in the medieval wall—and your entryway to Bratislava’s Old Town, which blends Gothic, baroque, and art deco structures with some less graceful reminders of the Communist era. The stately 18th-century Primatial Palace, in the center of Old Town, was the site where the Pressburg peace treaty was signed in 1805. Another 18th-century palace, Grassalkovich, is now the president of Slovakia’s official residence.

27 Dec 08 ~ Budapest, Hungary

Buda "the hills" and Pest (pronounced pescht) "the flatlands" is incredibly beautiful.

Trip to a huge market this morning, then my own city tour on the way back to the boat.

After lunch, a bus tour of both sides of the river, then to the Christmas market.  The market was by far the best I've seen this year or last.  So many unique, handmade, colorful items.  Bought 3 egg ornaments.

From the UniWorld site:

Located on opposite sides of the Danube, Buda, and Pest each have their own distinctive character and allure. You’ll get a taste of this dynamic capital city with your choice of tours, and visit Budapest’s celebrated Christmas Market—one of the largest in Europe. Christmas has been celebrated in Budapest for a thousand years, since the time of St. Stephen, the king who founded the nation of Hungary and encouraged the spread of Christianity throughout his realm, but the city began as a Roman encampment almost a millennium before that. Over the centuries it was controlled by Germans, Austrians, Ottomans, and Communists, all of whom have left traces.

From the UniWorld site:

“DO AS THE LOCALS DO” BUDAPEST WALKING TOUR

Your local guide will lead you on a walk from the ship to the Central Market for some authentic local holiday shopping. Three floors of produce and Hungarian specialties—garlands of paprika and sausages, jars of golden honey, the special gold-foil-wrapped candies Hungarians hang on their Christmas trees (and eat one by one until only the empty wrappers deck the tree), goose liver pâté—fill stalls and shelves. If you want to pick up some souvenir foodstuffs, look for those labeled Hungarikum, which must meet strict standards to merit the label. After you leave the market, you’ll head to Szamos Gourmet Palace (getting there will entail a ride on the tram, another linchpin in Budapest’s excellent public transportation system) for a coffee break.

Marzipan is a favorite confection in this city, and Szamos has specialized in making it since the 1930s, so you might want to try some—but the shop’s truffle selection is almost irresistible too. Nearby, you’ll see the famous Vörösmarty Square Christmas Market; spend a little while taking in its delicious aromas and colorful stalls before strolling to quiet Karoly Gardens with your guide for a respite from the holiday bustle. Then ramble down Karoly Boulevard, named for Budapest’s first mayor, to the magnificent Central Market Hall. The oldest, biggest, and most diverse of Budapest’s market halls, the Great Market Hall is worth a look just for its splendid tiled roof; the interior, however, is equally dazzling. Explore it on your own, return to the ship with your guide or return to the Vörösmarty Square Christmas Market.

A postcard from a Reddit contact that shows the Chain Bridge and Parliment:

His note on the back I'm sharing because I'm a hopeful hopeless romantic:

I bought this card on a road trip in 2017 after I called 17 hotels to find a place to stay and meet someone I'd only seen twice before.  It was a fun trip and we got married two months ago.  Hope it's a good add to your collections. 

[insert audio of collective "awwwww" here] I'm honored and surprised that he sent this.  The hopeless romantic in me would have had it in a scrapbook, and I hope that he bought more than one.

28 Dec 08 ~ Departure and Lessons Learned

Shuttle to the airport at 5:30a local although my flight doesn't leave until 8:30a.  Cold, or whatever it has been in my throat this week, finally hit the hardest today.

Connecting flight on Czech Air in Prague, and made it just as it was boarding.  Enough empty seats that everyone could spread out and I tried to get some sleep.

Landed at JFK, got through customs, with no issues then caught my connecting flight to Atlanta.  So glad I made a hotel reservation at the Holiday Inn Select instead of trying to fly back to Florida right away.  Was supposed to meet my brother for dinner, but he backed out.  Probably a good thing.  I feel like ca-ca and am exhausted.

29 Dec 08

It was such a good idea to stay the night.  I woke up feeling more alive than I had in 36 hours.  By the time I got to the hotel yesterday, I had been on the move for more than 24 hours.  

The doctor when I got home confirmed that I had a sinus and double ear infections.  Knocked me off my feet the rest of the week.

Notes and Lessons for future international travel:

• If possible, avoid adding more flights than necessary ~ like from Budapest to Prague ~ and take a train between cities and countries so that I just have one long overseas flight.  Add a day/night if must at both ends of the trip and explore a new city.
• Triple up on immunity boosters one month before any trip that will be more than a 3-hour flight away.
• Pack cold medicines and cough drops since it may be hard to find them local.
• Continue to take vitamins and immunity boosters every day of the trip.
• Minerals makeup is my new fav travel makeup, just remember to pack a good eye shadow brush.
• Bring hair clips or headbands for options on dressier dinner nights.
• Pack a mini magnifying mirror.
• Plan a night at a hotel when coming back on a flight of 8+ hours before catching a connecting flight home, or making a long drive.  Rest, Rest, Rest!
• Double-check hotel alarm clock is set to the correct AM/PM.  Better yet, rely on my own alarm on my phone or bring a small travel one.